Morocco was far more Western than I expected, but, yet, it
was a world of its own—at least compared to anywhere else I’ve travelled.
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Atlas Mountains |
There were the mountain women doing their laundry in the
streams and spreading it to dry on bushes and rocks; there were the urban
families (man, woman, and children) all crammed on one small motorbike; there
were the city laundromats where wringers and steam presses escaped the hoary
traditions of history to live in the present; there were the smiles (beautiful
smiles—even on less than beautiful people—though there was plenty of beauty in
Morocco); there were bikes loaded with five or six goat heads; there were
piles, circular cones, of spices… the boats, the camels, the Charlie Chaplin
movies… the crowds of people, bikes, motorbikes, and everything else trying to
jostle their way through the narrow, old streets.
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Wheat fields--often harvest manually |
And the food: the tangines, the orange juice, the pureed-fruit
drinks, the dates, the egg sandwiches, the chicken shawarmas (the one I ate in
Tangier was the best I’ve ever eaten), the cakes, the… and on and on.
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Atlas Mountains |
There was something officious, something friendly to the
country. There were things to buy, things to remember, things to forget.
Of the latter, the trash, the filth, the unhygienic practices—piles
of trash here and there, food fallen on the street picked up and re-sold, food
served on grubby dishes and with dirty flatware… Everywhere noble aspirations
were apparent, but the lack of skill, oversight, or the maintenance made them
empty mockeries of what could have been…
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Small town in mountains |
Underwriting it all, however, was a bustling vibrancy, the exuberance
of life, an undercurrent of movement, glossing over and dignifying many faults.
(Note: I liked Morocco, but, for good or for ill, I cannot gloss over the overtly public urination scenes in parks, along roads, in cities, and pretty much everywhere... so be warned if you plan to travel to Morocco.
Pictures from the Straits of Gibralter and the Moroccan countryside
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